Tuesday, February 5, 2008

We Have an Update

I have a small update on my Burda dress.
I had decided to innerline the dress with organza.
It will also have a lining.
I used polyester organza as the innerlining.
I take things too literally.
I had read that innerlining should be attached to the fashion fabric and then both are to be treated as one fabric.
So that's exactly what I did. But it became an issue when it was time make darts and pleats.
Trying to sew the darts in the back bodice with the two layers seemed odd and difficult.
I ended up sandwiching the organza (which didn't fold nicely at all ) into the fashion fabric and making the dart. That's when I stopped and emailed Laura at Laura's sewing room (she's my guru!)
She says you are to make darts, pleats, etc... on each piece individually and then treat them as one. For example: make your dart on your fashion fabric, make your dart on your innerling, press each in opposite directions, and then place wrong sides together and treat as one.
Well, I had already done the back darts wrong and I decided not to rip them out. But I will be careful for the rest of the dress.
The instructions also called for vilene bias tape to be used in the armholes. I went to patternreview and thankfully found a really good review on this dress.
I went and bought bias tape, trimmed it to 1/2 of an inch and stitched it to the innerlined fashion fabric. I just used pins to hold it in place and then sewed in 1/2 inch from the edge.
I have 1/2 of the top done and I've pinned it to Sally Stitch. (She's being very quiet, she knows I've replaced my poor old computer and knows she could be next).

Blurry picture of the shoulder seam with the bias tape at the armhole.

1/2 of the top bodice. Pinned together but not sewn

The top front and back stitched together at the shoulder, with the bias tape sewn into the armhole. The organza is the fabric on top and you can see I've drawn the fold and pleat lines onto the organza with indelible marker. I used indelible marker since it was on the inner lining and would never be seen. I will make the pleats in the fashion fabric and innerlining separately and THEN treat as one.

I'll work on this some more tomorrow. I want so badly for this to work!


LauraLo said...

That sentence about me being a guru for you really made me blush! Glad that I could help and don't worry, I think your dress will be just fine even if you sewed the darts by sandwiching the two fabrics. I did it with one dress in the past and it was perfectly alright.
Can't wait to see the finished dress, good luck and happy sewing, Laura!

Angelia said...

I'm thinking your dress is going to be hot!!!! I can't wait to see it!
laura at lauras sewing room is amazing isn't she??? I want to grow up to make clothes just like her!